Unforgettable Fine Dining at Ashford Castle Ireland
Fine Dining at Ashford Castle Ireland
What to Expect?
Before this winter is out, I would urge anyone looking for a top-quality food and wine experience to seriously consider a mini-break at Ashford Castle.
Ashford Castle, purchased by the Tollman Family in 2013, has for the last five years, been completely dedicated to developing their fine dining experience at the George V Dining Room in the hotel. Red Carnation was founded in 1950 by Bea Tollman who built her global business of family owned and run four- and five-star hotels from a small hotel business in South Africa. For the last decade the Red Carnation group have spent over €80 million refurbishing and renewing the entire Ashford estate.
I spent a few days in Ashford as the guest of the restaurant team headed by Executive Head Chef Liam Finnegan and Head Sommelier Paul Fogerty. Paul and I have known each other, since we studied WSET together. A WSET Diploma graduate, Paul from Co Galway, originally worked in his family’s restaurant in Clifden. Since then, following a twenty-five-year career in the wine business, Paul has been one of the stalwarts behind the development of Ireland’s modern wine business. His career path includes running a wine importing business as well as owing a popular wine bar/restaurant located in Fenian Street in Dublin 2. Five years ago, Paul joined the Ashford team as Head Sommelier and now oversees the development of a very impressive fine wine list.
Executive Head Chef, Liam Finnegan, joined the Ashford team three years ago. Originally from Carlingford, in Co Louth, his career path included a decade working as Head Chef in the UK at The Castle Hotel in Taunton. Prior to that he worked for The George Hotel on the Isle of Wight, The Bath Priory and Gidleigh Park in Devon, where he cut his teeth with Michael Caine holder of two Michelin stars. He started out in Co Monaghan, at the Nuremore Hotel in Carrickmacross, working with Ray McArdle.
Liam and Paul have a wealth of experience behind them, but in person their dynamic is such that they are one of the funniest double acts I have met in a long time. Not only was the food and wine spectacular, but the wit and knowledge, made for one of the best culinary evenings I have enjoyed in many many years!
So, what can the foodie expect at Ashford? For a start there is the George V Dining Room, built in 1905 to entertain the Prince of Wales (later George V) who was a guest of Lord Ardilaun. There is also Stanley’s a small informal “diner” named in honour of the late Stanley Tollman, husband of Beatrice, of which more anon. The Connaught Room, where afternoon tea has been served since 1868 and for less formal dining the restaurant known as The Dungeon.
Paul’s domain includes the Wine Cellar, a completely refurbished underground cellar, once a servant’s entrance, expertly restored to encompass three private tasting rooms. Each tasting room has a capacity for 10 guests and offers private tailored tutored tastings for all skill levels from beginner to enthusiast.
The Tollman family are also the owners of a very well-known South African wine estate Bouchard Finlayson. Located in a small valley called Hemel-en-Aarde (Heaven and Earth), the winery was founded in 1989 by one of South Africa’s top wine producer Peter Finlayson. The estate is located in the Walker Bay Region near Hermanus. Nearly all the hotel properties in the Red Carnation group sell Bouchard Finlayson wines, including Ashford Castle, which means Ashford is the only 5-Star property in Ireland with its very own vineyard!
At a private tasting with Paul in the Wine Cellar I tasted the Bouchard Finlayson Blanc de Mer, 2023 a blend of 70% Riesling 30% Viognier grown in the Walker Bay area. Lovely fresh wine, a good introduction to the range, lots of floral notes and lifting acidity. Then on to the Bouchard Finlayson Sans Barrique 2023, a young fresh Chardonnay made without wood influence. It has lush tropical fruit flavours and a lovely mineral character. Two Chardonnay’s followed, both with various levels of wood influence; Bouchard Finlayson Crocodile’s Lair 2023 is Chardonnay grown 750 metres above sea level in a vineyard located 80km from Hermanus, this is all about the purity of fruit. They leave it on its lees before ageing in a blend of new (30%) and 2nd and third fill. This was my favourite of the two oaked wines. Relatively young, the structure was sublime, a lovely balance of tropical fruit and a sweetish finish. Bouchard Finlayson Missionvale 2022 though a year older, still has a long way to go. This was tighter and leaner than the Crocodile Lair, mostly because it is aged in a blend of French oak and terra cotta amphorae. The structure was there but it needs time. Both Chardonnay’s are of outstanding quality and exemplify what South Africa can produce at premium level.
Stanley’s Diner
Stanley’s diner, during the day is used for guests who would like to enjoy a light snack in a very informal setting. The team of Liam and Paul, assisted by Sous Chef’s Matthew Davies and Paula Maria Botos, prepared a Chef’s Table private meal for us that was matched with a selection of fine wines from the wine list.
The wine selection included Château de Fieuzal, White 2019, Róisín Curley, Bourgogne Aligoté 2022, Cline Vineyards Viognier 2023, Thierry Germain Roche Saumur Champigny 2022, Domaine Duclaux Chateauneuf du Pape 2018 and Orange Muscat, Essensia, California, 2018.
Our starter was made from fresh produce grown in the Estate Kitchen Gardens, by head gardener Alex Lavarde. The Estate Winter Salad was created by Matthew Davies, a Sous Chef, from Achill who studied in GMIT in Galway. The dish consisted of Artichoke Puree, Celeriac cooked in butter, pickled Kohlrabi, with Coriander Seed and Loveage;
Paul matched this with Château de Fieuzal, 2019 made from a blend of 75% Sauvignon Blanc, 25% Semillón, Fieuzal produce approximately 1,000 cases each year, they do not use malolactic fermentation and the fruit is aged in a mix of stainless steel and standard oak as well as Acasia wood barrels. The Semillón adds a round finish to the wine. I love the slightly waxy finish and exotic fruit notes which was the ideal match with the salad.
The Confit of Organic Trout with Sea Truffle was served with a wine produced by the best winemaker from the West of Ireland, Master of Wine Róisín Curley. Aligote, Burgundy’s second white grape is known for its high levels of acidity. In the hands of a good winemaker like Róisín, the balance was outstanding. The trout was delicate and the slightly bitter flavour of the sea truffle complimented the oily weight of the fish and the acidity in the wine.
Salt Baked Turnip, served with Walnut, Granny Smith Apple, and Black Truffle, which was outstanding and worked very well with beautifully aromatic Viognier from California’s Sonoma Valley, the lush tropical fruit flavours were the perfect foil for the Turnip which was also blended with Ricotta Cheese. This dish was created by Paula Maria Botos, who is Spanish/Romanian and has been working with Liam as a Sous Chef. Another unique creation from a very talented young Chef, cleverly matched with a perfect ripe lush Californian wine.
The Roasted Thornhill Duck with Chicory and Figs with the Thierry Germain Roche Saumur Champigny 2022. The key to the quality of the wines from the Saumur region is the Tuffeau/Limestone soil that the grapes are grown on. The name Champigny comes from the Latin Campus Ignis meaning “fields of fire,” a reference to the climatic enclave found here. Rainfall is low and the average vineyard temperatures are higher than in the other villages. This wine had wonderful floral aromas, peony roses came to mind, it has tons of fruit and was very enjoyable example of what a good Cabernet Franc is. The duck was rare and Paul’s choice of an elegant mineral lighter style red, was a good one.
Liam used a Sous-vide to cook his Herb Crusted Venison, which was served with Celeriac, Radicchio and Beetroot. The meat melted in the mouth Paul picked Domaine Duclaux Châteauneuf-du-Pape 2018, the wine was concentrated, complex and spicy. It was a match made in heaven.
Our Dark Chocolate Mousse, with the Orange Muscat, Essensia, California, 2018 was a classic!
The Chef’s table option is not usually available, so we were very privileged to be invited to it. I asked Liam about the “M” word, too early he replied, but it is apparently obvious they are heading in that direction!!
For more information or to book: https://ashfordcastle.com/
Bouchard Findlayson wines are distributed in Ireland by Tindal Wine Merchants http://www.tindalwine.com
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